A Rendezvous in Dijon

After a short winter on the Isle of Man I am back to France. This time home is a 25 meter barge called the Rendezvous. I am cooking for Elegant Waterways who own and run three barges, all of which cruise along the canals of Burgundy.  Menus to include lots of fantastic Burgundian wines, oodles of Truffles, Duck, Cherries, Escargot and of course Fois Gras.

Trout mousseline

The boat accommodates six passengers and four crew. We head South from Dijon along the Valle D’ouche which is a pretty limestone valley strung with tiny villages containing little other than a beautiful church, a bar and some angry looking geese. The guests are conveyed, each day, by Armelle, our tour guide, to Chateaux, Vine yards and markets whilst the crew keep the boat in tip top condition. I have carte blanche with the budget and menu planing and although the guests know that they can request anything (one guest had a penchant for Brussels sprouts as their vegetable du jour) we usually stick to local food simply because it is so good. It’s a grueling schedule for the crew with little time off but even a quick coffee sat on the air conditioning unit back aft acts as mini holiday. The scenery is verdantly beautiful and calming, a minute watching a Heron fish and take flight can feel like an eternity.

Cooking aboard Rendezvous

It’s been challenging at times. I think my most worrying dish was the Poulet de Bresse. It’s hard not to be intimidated by what is, ostensibly, chicken and mushrooms in wine but which costs 64 euro for two birds, 72 euro for the wine, as it has to be vin Jaune from the Jura region and handfuls of dried morels. I did panic about about doing justice to such a renowned dish but the blue footed chickens do all the work in that they are so fatty they do not go dry in the cooking. The meal was a delight and I was so grateful to be asked to cook it even though it gave me a few sleepless nights beforehand

Elf smiles at the thought of finding more Truffles

My favourite ingredient of the year had to be the Cardinal Artichokes which remained in season all the time that I was in France. I used them in all sorts of ways from the traditional eaten whole with vinegarette to veloute and soups. I felt as though I was looking after the beleaguered livers of our guests. The Artichoke is part of the thistle family and has marvelous healing effects. I think the tastiest way to cook them and certainly the easiest way is boiled, quartered and roasted with all manner of other goodies. Recipe to follow on my work in process recipe page.

October brought us Truffles. It was not the best conditions for them. The year was dry and intense, perfect for Viniculture but not great for the flamboyant funghi who prefer dank and wet conditions. Emma and I managed an afternoon of foraging with ‘Elf’ the Italian Truffle Hound. We headed up to the hills above Nuit St Georges. Our morning, with the happiest dog in the world, culminated in a degustation lunch of all things Truffe. We ate Truffle Cheese, Jambon Perseille avec Truffle Mayo and Tartuffa on bruschetta washed down with Truffle Mead which works well in a splash of Cremant de Bourgogne as does pretty much everything!

Thanks to all at the Maison des Truffes for a wonderful experience. For more info www.maisondestruffes.com

I managed to eat out a few times in Burgundy and by far and away my favourite place was Chateau Saint Sabine. It’s defiantly somewhere for you to try if you find yourself in this sublime valley.

www.saintesabine.com

For more information about the Rendezvous and her sister boats contact Spencer www.elegantwaterways.com

The year was made far more enjoyable by the myriad of fascinating guests who joined us for our six day soujourn. A big Thank you to them and to my friend and work colleague Emma!

Emma Bowers provides fully catered experience retreats in the Yorkshire Dales & Beyond. She’s a great Cook and made my year on the Barge. I do hope to get to work with her again in 2019. Top secret News is that we might be sailing together to the deep, icy South later this year! Fingers crossed.

Clink on the link to discover more

Emma’s Dales Experiences

 

‘Gatherers’ by Jaime Molina

I met Jaime in ‘The Courtyard’ in Falmouth, excellent food by the way, we got talking and the subject quickly turned to our great love of the outdoors, foraging and exploring the local countryside for scrummy things to eat. When we met again he told me all about his project of putting together a handmade book which focused on Cornwall and the people who chose, as much as possible, to live off the land. He’s interviewed people with thriving seaweed business, people who shoot rabbits as their main food source, fishermen and recreational foragers. and has put together an original book about what it means to them to live sustainably.  To be honest I have a hatred of warehouse food, I can almost feel the cells of my body relinquishing any sense of joy when walking around the likes of Tesco’s. Yes, it’s a necessary part of life to buy toilet roll in a fluorescent floodlit shed but… there’s a cost

Jaime asked me to write a forward to his gorgeous book and I welcomed doing it. It’s full of lovely photographs as he’s studying photography at Falmouth. At the moment there is a limited print run but hopefully a publishing house will notice it and it will be more widely available.

A Summer in France at La Cloche

I am back from the Falklands for five days and it’s time to head off to the Dordogne where I shall be heading up the tiny kitchen team at La Cloche in Abjat Sur Bandiat.

1940’s food and dress

First thing to think about is Edwina’s 70th. I got the job through a chum of mine from early barging days and it’s her Mum’s Birthday soon so we are organising a 1940’s party. The Menu will reflect a ‘Dig for victory’ theme. A foraged soup to start made with Wild Sorrel, Pennywort, Dandelion, Spinach and Oxalis. Cheap cuts of meat cooked long and slow followed by Pain Perdu, which translates as lost bread, and is a take on the British Bread and Butter pud but much nicer as it’s made with the left over Croissants and Pain au Chocolate.

Moulin D’Abbeye

Brantome and the Moulin D’abbeye
Brantome

The real highlight of my Summer in the Dordogne was Brantome and the Moulin D’Abbeye. I spent a long sublime evening alone working my way through the Chef’s Degustation Menu, all seven exquisite courses of it. It was honestly the best meal I have ever tasted combined with the most superb scenery and perfect service. A definite return to … again and again

www.moulinabbaye.com

 

Gourmet Foraging at Fat Hen

April saw a weekend of Gourmet Foraging at Fat Hen in Penwith, I’ve known of Caroline since she began her business in 2009. Back then she taught from her farmhouse kitchen, these days we all pile in to a lovely converted barn which caters for groups of up to 16. The aim is to source as much as possible from the hedgerows and seashore around her home in St Buryan.

Fat Hen Family

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This year I will be teaching at two Gourmet Weekends along with Top T.V. Mark Devonshire.

I’ve narrowly avoided meeting Mark for years. He was Rick Stein’s Development Chef for years and taught at the Cookery School in Padstow where I have spent many a day. I have also done some stages at the Seafood Restaurant in Padstow so it’s amazing that we haven’t met until now. Upon meeting it was Chefy love at first sight and along with Jill and Poppy we ploughed on with then extensive Mise list for the weekend.

 

Watership down massacre

Caroline takes our keen foragers out for the morning where they scour the leafy Penwith lanes for salads before heading to the beach. Back at Fat Hen Mark and I prep our “Here’s one I made early” assortment of goodies. My Favourites this year have been Potato Cakes with Dulse, Venison Carpaccio with burnt Hazelnuts and Orange and Carragheen Pannacotta. The group return at lunchtime for a sit down meal of Soup, Breads, Crackers, Potato Cakes and Salads before embarking on an afternoon of skill based tasks like filleting fish, preparing crab and skinning rabbits. Later Mark demonstrates the art of pasta making avec green colouring from the luminous tips of nettles. I prep the basics for the Rabbit Stew.

Brown Crab

On Saturday evening we cook a celebratory meal for our amateur foragers and their partners, everyone relaxes with a Buckthorn Fizz and canapes followed by all the best from our stunning Penwith Pennisular.

The course ends after lunch on Sunday. It’s tremendously hard work and there have been injuries, notably the black eye and cuts that I sustained after tripping in the garden when hunting for the Rosemary bush at dusk, but, I always learn so much on Caro’s courses

Mark and I have become firm friends and I was delighted when he invited me to help judge at the 18th International Pasty Championships at the Eden Project. He and his partner run a catering company in Cornwall www.markdevonshire.co.uk

Poppy runs a highly regarded Supper club in London and Caroline continues to wander the verdant lanes of Cornwall thinking up new and exciting recipes.

www.fathen.org

www.facebook.com/troughsupperclub

Fat Hen Foragers

 

Penguin News

The following article was written and published by the Penguin News, The Falkland Islands weekly newspaper

“I’ve recently been lucky enough to have the time to join Uzma’s Kazmi’s Spicy Cuisine evenings at FICS. Last week, with her patient supervision, we made Chicken Biryani and Lahori chiker cholay, a spicy chick pea curry. It turns out that the trick with an authentic Biryani is to fry the onions until they are so caramelised they take on a whole new flavour. Uzma informed me that the word Biryani means fried onions. I later asked her what masala meant “gravy” she replied and then as I showed so much wonder at what she had told me she smiled her beautiful, mischievous smile and said “Yes Molly it’s like learning another language!” The list of ingredients was extensive but we all pooled our spices and offered each other advice on where to find the rarer items.

Later in the week I was wandering around Stanley and, as ever, was drawn to the end of aisle bargains. I can never resist a red sticker. In Seafish I found Tamarind and then later in the West Store there was a glut of palm sugar both reduced to pennies. Neither of these ingredients I expected to find in FI. They made me think of one of my all time favourite curries. The Goan Prawn Balchao. I was taught it at Rick Stein’s years ago. It’s a relatively dry curry and is traditionally made with prawns but works just as well with chicken strips and, I can imagine, it would be fabulous with squid.

Firstly make the paste. If you have a coffee grinder throw all your spices in it but if you have had a bad day at work get out your rolling pin, pestle and mortar or whatever blunt instrument you have to hand and start smashing 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds and 2 teaspoons each of coriander seeds, black peppercorns and cloves. Pop them all in to a food processor adding 1 teaspoon of turmeric, 1 teaspoon of palm sugar (muscovado will do if it’s sold out), 1 teaspoon of salt, 6 garlic cloves, 100g red chillies, 2 teaspoons of tamarind (if you are using the dry stuff you might need to add a bit of warm water to soften it) a thumb of ginger and 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar. Blitz together and that’s your paste done.

When you are ready for supper chop a couple of onions and another 6 cloves of garlic frying them until brown add the paste and fry for a couple of minutes until the spices start to separate from the oil. Mix another 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar and 1 tablespoon of palm sugar. Simmer for a minute or two before adding the prawns. They just need to warm through. Try it, It’s unusual but so tasty and I do hate seeing good food go to waste”

“Thank you to all the people who emailed to tell me where to find seaweed. I am off out to have a bit of a forage. Mols”

Sushi with Al Matias in Stanley

I’ve been helping out a Bittersweet in Stanley.  Firstly I began on the Tapas Menu whilst Head Chef Al worked flat out on Pizzas. We soon began to talk about our favourite food, countries we wanted to visit and the wonders of local produce. All this lead to us planning a new menu for the restaurant. The owner Julie was delighted with our ideas and gave us carte blanche. I reinvented the brunch menu to include freshly made hollandaise with all the usual trimmings like smoked salmon, bagels, spinach and poached ggs. Al worked on some gorgeous toothfish recipes for lunch. After a few weeks we formulated the idea of a sushi night. I was mad keen to learn all Al’s secrets as he had worked on several prestigious cruise ships as Sushi Chef.

Al Matias Sushi Chef

He set about making Furikake known as the salt and pepper of Japan. He spent a week drying fish and picking it apart into tiny flakes. We added toasted sesame seeds, seaweed, salt and sugar. It is truly gorgeous when you make it yourself and a superb addition to most dishes.

Al carefully separates the strands of dried fish. Part of the intense process of making your own Furikake

We all had a fabulous evening although it was such hard work making all the rolls, homemade wasabi, pickles and garnish. Proud to say that I think it was one of the events that we held at Bittersweet that lead us to being awarded the Taste of the Falklands Award.

I adored working with Julie, Al. Michelle and Baron. Thank you so much. I do hope our paths cross again on our culinary wanderings.

Look out for some of the recipes on my page coming in March.

Sushi

Penguin News … Cooking with Molly

I’ve been out and about this week, taking advantage of the lovely weather to do a spot of foraging. I am pleased to say that I have found Sea lettuce at Eliza’s Cove, Bertha’s and Cape Pembroke. Seaweed has made a bit of a culinary comeback of late. When I was a child growing up on the west of Ireland I only ever remember it as a very unappetising brown sludge but then all my Grandmother’s cooking was like that so it’s no reason not to give it a second chance. You will be glad to hear that there are no poisonous seaweeds in the world but some look and taste better than others. Sea lettuce is easy to recognize as it looks like lettuce, has a ruffled edge and is vivid green. Collect it, give it a quick rinse and then immerse it in equal parts of water and white wine vinegar and leave in the fridge for a day or two. It is delicious with Salmon or any oily fish as it holds its colour, shape and texture and cuts through fishy fattiness as would a caper or a gherkin. Also, like all seaweeds it’s packed with essential minerals and vitamins.

Penguin News

A bit closer to home in Stanley there are so many edible leaves and flowers that we can use to prettify salads. I like to throw a handful of gorse flowers or marigold to add colour and I use young dandelion leaves and the tender shoots of plantain to add hints of flavour.

Dandelion by the way comes from the French words ‘Dente de Lion’ the teeth of the Lion which, if you look at the leaves, makes perfect sense.

One thing I was delighted to see growing wild in town is Three Cornered Leek. It’s the same family as garlic and onions and has a pretty white flower. I haven’t got a clue how it got here but it seems to be doing very well. I use the flowers as edible decoration and the leaves and stalks I make it in to Pesto. Add a few bunches to olive oil, a handful of toasted pine nuts and some parmesan and blitz it until it has the same consistency of the basil pesto that you would buy in the shops. It’s fabulous added to cream to make a pasta sauce or to breadcrumbs to make a crust for fish. It also works as a drizzle in soups or as a dressing for salads or vegetables. I first discovered it, many years ago, when working on a boat in Norway. The skipper would add it to wild garlic and make a sauce that he used to call “Viking Viagra” I have no idea how well it worked, I’ll let you do your own research. All the allium family are known to be wonderful for cleansing the blood and I am sure many of us will benefit from that in the New Year!

Christmas at Bluff Cove

www.penguin-news.com

Darwin House, Falkland Islands

Well here I am on the Falkland Islands. After four months of interviews, work permits and medicals I have finally arrived via RAF Brize Norton. I have  discovered some incredibly tasty new fish and produce and all sorts of innovative recipes. I am particularly fond of Toothfish Cheeks. A Toothfish can grow up to 10 metres in length and live until it’s 50! It’s an absolute privilege to be here and even though the Military call the Islands Dartmoor by Sea in a derogatory sense, I can’t think of any place more lovely.

My first major catering event was a watercolour course run by the very talented Richard Cockwell. In between prepping Balmoral Chicken, Toothfish cheeks and STP I managed to join in for an hour of painting. Form the gardens of the Lodge the views over Mount Usbourne are simply breaktaking. What I most like about painting is it gives you the chance to look and watch the clouds skating past the hills. The winds here are deceptive and although the weather can look beautiful from my kitchen window it’s quite often blowing a hooley when I step outdoors.

Richard teaches watercolour at Darwin house

www.darwin-house.com

I have also found a funny little book called recipes “Fit for FIDS” It was written in the 1950’s by a interesting character who is spoken of very highly on the Islands. I have eaten smoked Sea Shag in Iceland last year and very good it was too but I am a good deal more wary about seal brain and penguins!

Extracts from “Fit for FIDS”

 

 

 

 

 

The Gurnard’s Head, Zennor

I love the Gurnie. It’s one of those pubs that you pop in to for a coffee at 11am and end up staying all day. I lived in Hay on Wye for number of years and was a regular at Charles’s other Hotel the Griffen at Felin Fach. I used to eat there when Max was the Chef. Max has just moved to become Head Chef at the Gurnard’s and I will be working with him, Fionn, Trigs and Dan. I love the team and I’ve done some adhoc work there a few times now. It’s always intensely busy but such a  good laugh working with the lads and all that gorgeous food.

I’m looking forward to learning lots of tips and new recipes. The pastry chef Fionn makes the best Soda Bread and the added joy of it is that he has his Mum’s recipe for it tattooed to his bottom. Just as well as I do seem to forget that recipe quite alot!!. I will try to take a photograph of it for you one day. To be honest that is hard core cheffing when you start inking your body with recipes!

www.gurnardshead.co.uk

Spring Stew

A typical supper at this time of year

Mushroom Soup *
Purple sprouting broccoli, garlic, za’atar, yoghurt *
Mackerel, brown shrimp, sesame & coriander broth *
Scampi monkfish, mango, carrot, red onion & coriander 8.50
Cod tongue, ham hock & parmesan cassoulet, garlic oil 8.00
Hake, mushroom, spring onion & seaweed dashi 8.50
Chicken liver parfait, red onion jam, toast 8.50
~
Ray wing, crushed potatoes, spinach, caper butter *
Sprouting broccoli, garlic, za’atar, yoghurt *
Lamb breast, kale, goats cheese, cauliflower *
Red gurnard, spring onions, ginger, seaweed, cuttlefish  18.00
Cod, taramasalata, broccoli tempura, smoked almonds, za’atar  19.00
Pork collar, black pudding, mash quince 19.00
Rump of beef, wild garlic, broccoli, crispy tongue  21.00

www.gurnardshead.co.uk

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