How often do you get the chance to live in Venice? I find myself with six weeks in this sublime city where I am looking after some apartments for the Contessa Enrica Rocca and her dog Soya. The Contessa also runs her own cookery schools in Venice, London and South Africa and has invited me along on a few of her markets tours and cookery evenings. She has written a beautiful book too which is full of her collection of plates and serving bowls full of her gorgeous food.
Firstly we spent the morning in the Fish Market underneath the Rialto Bridge. I’ve always loved this market but in the past it felt somewhat intimidating. Yes it’s all glassy eyed and fresh but that’s to an non Venetian. So much of the seafood that I see I don’t have the slightest idea what to do with it or importantly whether I am getting Venetian prices or Tourist prices. Enrica haggles and barters in a way that I hadn’t seen since I lived in Jordan. What I love about buying food like this is the poking and prodding, the smelling. In the UK we seem to have such a “Keep off the grass” mentality that we don’t mind our food being incarcerated in packaging. Europeans have to taste before they buy, have to smell, bring it up to the nose, feel it sensually otherwise how will they know what they are getting?. We buy our provisions and head down a sunless alley and into what looks like a shipping container where I am told are the best fruit and vegetables in the city. We poke, prod and taste more before deciding on the menu for the day. That is true skill of cookingĂ‚Â to be able to look at one is on offer that day and bring together a recipe. More shopping, less cooking. Buy the best produce at the best price and your work is done.
On the way back to the Contessa’s palazzo we stop off for prosecco and cicchetti. Now that’s what I call shopping! www.enricarocca.com
